Friday night in Saigon.
Have I mentioned that this is a country that never sleeps? Although most citizens work 6-7 days per week, they still treat the weekends as special. The night clubs fill up, the restaurants pull out differnet menus and the streets are packed with weekend revelers. I need to confirm with Thuy, but mom and I think that most Vietnamese do not cook at home very much. The streets and lined with food vendors and they are always busy. Every night the parks are full of families just hanging out. Most homes here are small and lacking A/C, so people escape to parks in the evening to relax and socialize.
Wednesday night we ate dinner at the rooftop restaurant at the Rex. It's a lovely setting, with a steady breeze and an excellent view of the city center. Maia managed to stay awake through the entire meal! Mom and I thought it would be best to go to a very close restaurant so Maia and Kiana would be subjected to long walks or car rides, and if they both got cranky we would only be steps from our room. Our plan half worked: Kiana fussed most of the meal. This kid just wants to be held all the time, and held in a certain way. She loves to be out and about and is especially interested when we are around Vietnamese. She just can't take her eyes off of them. She is getting better--or we are getting better at anticipating her needs--but meals are still a major drag.
Thursday morning Mom, Maia, Kiana and I went to Maia's orphanage in the Go Vap district of HCMC. Thuy had called the orphanage director to notify her of our visit and she told Thuy that she remembered Maia and even had a picture of her on her desk. Sure enough, there was Maia before she lost all of her baby hair! Mom didn't recognize her because of the hair, but it was her. Go Vap used to be a Catholic orphanage and Thuy's mom worked there when she was a little girl. It houses over 300 children and adults, many of them with special needs. In Vietnam, children with severe disabilites spend their entire lives at the same orphanage, so as they age out of the children's section, they move to the adult section. Go Vap doesn't have the elder orphanage like we saw in Kien Giang and Vin Long, just the special needs adults from its childrens wards.
The newborn nursery is on the 2nd floor. I can still remember the first time I ever saw Maia, walking up those stairs with Thuy and Kirk and having a baby thrust into my arms that I barely recognized as being my child from the pictures I'd received just days earlier. I was expecting to make that same walk today, but there are 2 newborn rooms and Thuy took us to the other one first. It has 30 babies in it with about 5 caregivers. Thuy explained who we were and I showed them a picture of Maia in her old crib. Four of the nannies remembered Maia and couldn't stop hugging her and rubbing her cheeks. We were allowed to walk through the entire second floor of the orphanage. Kirk, that little playground is still next to the nursery and you'd almost think it was the same kids playing there. In the classroom where we used to visit with Maia during that first trip, about 15 special needs kids were dancing up a storm. They were so sweet, even trying to entice Maia to dance with them. They filed out for lunch and we started passing out the bags of gummy candies that we'd brought. The nannies made sure we didn't miss anybody and took us from room to room. Some of the children had very disfiguring ailments and were confined to wheel chairs and back boards. In one room, all of the children were wearing bright orange t-shirts that had been donated by a Japanese company. One of the little boys in this room wanted to hug mom, and when she bent down to hug him he jumped right into her arms! We look at these kids from our frame of reference and think, "what poor little kids. They have nothing and live in metal cribs stacked side-by-side with clothes too big and no families to care for them." But they don't see it like that at all. They have nannies who love them, warm, nourishing food to eat, beds to sleep in, a roof to shelter them, and they find joy and delight in the small things that we over look, such as a token of candy or a hug and caring word from a stranger.
Maia was, as expected, overwhelmed by it all. In fact, durig the 30 minute trip to the orphanage she was very quiet and didn't even want to look out the windows which was a shame because we drove through the Go Vap market, where live fish, eels, frogs, etc where for sale right there on the side walk. The fish didn't bother me, but I did hate to see the frogs all tied together by one leg, each trying to hop in a different direction and thus none of them going anywhere.
If you know Maia, you know she was studying everything and missing nothing of the visit to Go Vap, dispite her unease at being there. I'm going to
try not to pry but to wait for her to start asking and talking about what she saw and felt there.
Thuy showed us the 2 babies that CHI familes will be picking up next week and she was able to get a referral for another little boy while we were there, so more babies are finding their forever families! Thuy was at a meeting with CIS at the US Embassy in Hanoi on Monday and was told that of the 39 adoptions that have taken place since the moratorium was lifted, 19 have been through CHI!
I am so glad that we were able to visit Go Vap with Maia. Someday I hope to take Kiana back to her first home in Kien Giang.
We were very hot and sweaty when we got back from Go Vap (hot and sweaty is a recurring theme in Vietnam, and we've been told that Hanoi is even hotter, which we all think is impossible), so we took an early lunch in the airconditioned sactuary known as the Paradise Lounge. In the afternoon we were confined to our hotel as we waited for the call to pick up the babies' Vietnamese passports. When the call came, we piled back into the familiar van, sans babies this time. At the passport office we again just signed our names and voila! our children had passports. Thuy kept the passports so one of her employees could take them to the hospital to finalize the paperwork for the medical exam. We now have everything we need to go to Hanoi! We leave at 9 am Saturday morning and arrive about midday. Our embassy appointments are for 1:30 Monday afternoon, so we should have the babies' US Visas by Tuesday morning! This means we can leave Hanoi for the US on Tuesday evening, a whole 4 days early! There's only one catch: it seems that there are no seats available from Hanoi to Taipei. If it looks like we'll have to stay in Vietnam until Saturday the 1st, we are talking about taking some excursions out of Hanoi and spending a night in Ha Long Bay and before going to the mountains of the Montanaird (spelling?) villages. We'll just have to see what happens.
For dinner on Thursday we went to the Continental Hotel, and old Saigon institution. It's a grand old hotel from the French era. Unfortunately, our sweet little Kiana still doesn't like restaurants very much. I had to leave with her twice and mom twice. Mom even ended up leaving her glass of wine, if that tells you how serious the screams were. On the plus side, the food was excellent and Maia ate her biggest dinner meal since we arrived 10 days ago.
This morning (Friday) we got up early so we could take a day trip to the Cu Chi tunnels. Only two families were going and we had a baby sitter lined up for the little kids. But Kiana woke up with a fever and so mom decided to stay behind, and then the other little boy woke up with swollen glands, so those parents decided to opt out, so the whole trip was cancelled. It as just as well, actually, that we had a day to relax in Saigon before Kiana's first airplane trip.
Well, I'm almost caught up, so I'll adjourn now and try to logon from Hanoi tomorrow.
Cathy
It's hard to believe that we've had Kiana for 7 days now. She is growing and changing so much every day! She'